April saw me and my husband return to Wirksworth for the second time. Nestled on the southern edge of the Peak District, this pretty market town is one of the area’s best-kept secrets. This piece combines both of our visits to give you plenty of ideas if you choose to visit too, hence why the weather changes in the pictures.
Where to stay
We stumbled across The Old Lockup B&B online and booked it for our first visit. There was no question about where we wanted to stay the second time around. In fact, what prompted our latest getaway was that they had availability.
Last time we stayed in the Hayloft (above what was the coach house) and this time we chose the Solicitor’s Room in the main house. A Solicitor’s Room? Yes that’s right! As the name suggests the building, which dates to 1842, was originally a magistrate’s house then a police station. The rooms retain many original features, making The Old Lockup a quirky, unique and charming place to be.
So now you know about the ‘bed’ what about the ‘breakfast’?
You choose your breakfast and the time you would like it the night before by completing a form and leaving it on the bar in reception.
On the side as you enter the dining room you will find a selection of cereals and fresh orange juice, plus the smell of breakfast wafting from the kitchen which is making my mouth water as I sit at my desk.
In said kitchen, you’ll find chef Tim. A welcoming man and caring host who rustles up the most delicious food. I had veggie breakfasts of fried potato, eggs, mushrooms, vine tomatoes and baked beans. My husband, who is exceptionally fussy about the quality of his bacon and sausages, very much enjoyed his non-veggie full English too. Both breakfasts were mopped up with toast made from homemade bread. This is just one of the ways Tim goes the extra mile. Along with linen tablecloths and napkins, coffee served in a cafetiere (no instant here!) and chocolates on your pillow when you arrive, his extra touches don’t go unnoticed and ensure you have a special and comfortable stay.
Parking is restricted on the street outside during the day, but there is a small, free public car park opposite and a larger (again free) car park a few minutes’ walk away so finding somewhere to pop the car isn’t an issue.
Wirksworth – our top picks
Picturesque and full of character, Wirksworth ticks all the boxes. It has plenty of good pubs and restaurants, churches to explore, a museum where you can learn the area’s fascinating history, independent shops, a cosy cinema housed in an 18th-century malthouse and (this is what sealed the deal for us) a steam train station.
A very short walk from the main town the National Stone Centre, a site of Special Scientific Interest. There is also the StarDisc, a 12-metre-wide star chart etched into stone which can be found in Stoney Wood, Wirksworth’s millennium woodland.
Wirksworth has several options when it comes to eating and drinking. We highly rate award-winning, French-inspired Le Mistral which has an extensive menu (including locally sourced food) and an even bigger wine list. It’s special enough for a celebration or romantic meal, but the atmosphere is warm and friendly so you can kick back and relax. Just to note, this is a cashless business so payment is by card only.
We also ate at the Hope and Anchor which does exceptional pub food, again much of it locally sourced, so we highly recommend eating there too.
Regarding things to do, we love (well, I love – husband less so) mooching around the shops. There’s a fantastic gift shop on the main street, a picture shop where we picked up some framed prints and an art shop with quirky pieces. There are also food shops, convenience stores and a pharmacy for everyday needs. On our way back to The Old Lockup, we spotted a retro and record shop which was nice to look around too.
For anyone curious about history, head to Wirksworth Heritage Centre where there is plenty to discover including the story of the ice age woolly rhino, the background of ‘red tape’ made there for Whitehall, how the town was shaped by lead mining and quarrying, and more. As well as the permanent exhibitions, the Centre houses special collections periodically and walks, talks and tours.
Seeing a film at the Northern Light Cinema is not to be missed! Although they show the latest films you could see at your local cinema, this was a whole new experience for us. From the moment you enter the bar, you know it will be a special night. Popcorn was freshly made, and my husband had a pick-n-mix served in a cute little jar. We treated ourselves to a luxury sofa for two where I slipped off my shoes and snuggled under a blanket with my feet comfortably perched on the footstall. We’d just had a big meal, so a mug of peppermint tea was welcome, and my husband had a beer.
Finally, we recommend a trip on the Ecclestone Valley Railway which is Derbyshire’s longest heritage railway and has its main base at Wirksworth station. Check the timetable beforehand to ensure trains are running and, if you’re a lover of steam trains like we are, whether they’re diesel or steam. There are also special events and dining options. You can visit the station’s shop, café, bar, miniature railway and model railway.
Further afield
Buxton: Just over half an hour from Wirksworth is the spa town of Buxton. This bustling town is rich in Georgian and Victorian architecture. Away from the main shops and shopping centre, we found the Cavendish Shopping Arcade. This is home to gift shops, boutiques, jewellery stores, local food and drink and other such treats. We also visited the Museum and Art Gallery and nipped into the Assembly Rooms after being invited by a lovely lady who saw us wandering about. They were stunning but I believe not open to the public often. Sadly we decided to cut our visit short as the weather was dreadful, but next time we’ll explore The Buxton Crescent Experience which looks interesting.
Bakewell: Around 20 minutes from Wirksworth, Bakewell is famed for its pudding which legend suggests was created accidentally when a 19th-century cook’s jam tart went wrong. We sampled ours at The Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop which has sold Bakewell puddings since 1860, before wandering around the shops and walking our pudding off up the hill to All Saints Church.
Chatsworth House: The magnificent Chatsworth House is 30 minutes by car from Wirksworth and is always one of our highlights. There is so much to see and do here including the house, gardens and farm. For us, no holiday is complete without afternoon tea, so we booked one here which was a real treat. I love a good gift shop, and Chatsworth’s stables gift shop is one of my all-time favourites. They have a huge range of products at all price ranges. I found small gifts for everyone and some birthday presents for later in the year.
Peak Rail: You can get to Matlock in less than 20 minutes to hop aboard the Peak Rail Heritage Railway and travel through the beautiful Derbyshire countryside. Again, check the timetable to ensure services are running and choose from diesel or steam locos.
Haddon Hall: A 20-minute drive from Wirksworth, Haddon Hall is one of the most unspoilt houses and gardens I’ve ever visited from the medieval and Tudor times. After exploring the house, we listened in on a 15-minute talk which gave brief details of the house’s rich history. The gardens also looked beautiful, but the rain did not so we did these quickly before heading back inside for a cuppa and a cake in the restaurant instead. Parking is payable (£3.80 when we went, I had cash but I believe they accepted cards too) and in a car park across the road from the entrance.
Matlock Bath: We stopped off at Matlock Bath on our way home. I’ve since heard that Matlock Bath has been called ‘a seaside town without the sea’ which is exactly how I would describe it. It was busy with families enjoying the sunshine, so we grabbed ice creams and had a pleasant walk by the river to escape the crowds.
And next time…
There is so much to see and do in the area that we’ve already begun planning our next trip. The Visit Peak District and Derbyshire website has lots of information. For those looking for a more active break, there is plenty of hiking, cycling and horse riding in the area too.